January 21, 2023
Arrival in Papeete:
Today we ventured into the wilds of Tahiti aboard a 4 x 4. It was quite a bumpy ride as we left the main roads and jolted down a narrow dirt road through the tropical forest. We passed lacy trees, vine-covered trees, and broad-leafed trees. Pale yellow wild hibiscus and bright yellow and purple ground cover broke through the varying shades of green that surrounded us. Above us towered the now-extinct volcano and other mountains of Tahiti. (The island has drifted away from the hot spot beneath the ocean that once powered the volcano.)
Kudzu vine (Miconia calvescens) wound the trees. Although picturesque, this invasive vine is killing the native trees of Tahiti. Our guide explained that it was introduced during World War II to provide cover during the war, but has since grown out of control.
Our guide plucked a hibiscus blossom and gave it to me. He explained that although yellow now that as evening approached, it would gradually turn pink and then red. I examined the blossom and saw a small thread of pink already spreading along its edges. As the day went on, the pink slowly spread. The next morning, it had turned a pale red even though it was no longer on the vine or even in water.
We stopped several times along the way to admire the scenery and learn more about Tahiti. Our first stop was to view two waterfalls. Tahiti has the most waterfalls of all the Polynesian Islands. We stopped a few times to view waterfalls, but we saw only a few of the 160 waterfalls on the Island. Although our guide spotted a brand new small waterfall that had not been there before.
While viewing the waterfalls, Brent discovered the mimosa plant (or “shame plant”). Its leaves curl in and disappear when touched.
We next stopped in the middle of a small river. It is a popular hangout spot for locals, who come to swim and gather with friends.
A particularly interesting stop, was an archaeological site of an ancient marae where Tahitians used to gather for saxred ceremonies. The marae was shaped like a canoe because it was believed that the Polynesian gods, like the Polynesians themselves, traveled by canoe. Only the gods traveled over the air instead of just in the water. By shaping the marae like a canoe, it welcomed a god to land there. The ancient Tahitian kings were viewed as godlike as well. Everything a king touched belonged to him – jewelry, land, even people. So, it became tricky if a king from another island came to visit. He couldn’t touch the land because that would be like an act of war trying to take the land from that island’s king. Thus, instead of walking the king was carried about on people’s shoulders. Special rocks marked sacred places to sit. One such spot was in perfext alignment with the volcano. Another, in the shape of a triangle, was reserved only for the priest. It was tabu (forbidden) for anyone else to use it.
The red pillar in the marae stands for the time of the Pleiades constellation which was when the marae was built. This was significant because it marked a 6 month period of abundance in which the land could be hunted. Afterwards, for 6 months people could not hunt or forage from this part of the island. Luckily different marae were built in different months, so there was always a place of abundance to get food from. However, it kept an area from being depleted. The Tahitians were wise about food and land management. Each time they came to a new island, one of their first acts was to plant the taro root (kind of like a potato). This would grow and spread so there would always be food available.
We didn’t get to swim because the water was too muddy, but there was a chicken with baby chicks.
Our final stop was a panoramic viewpoint.
So much greenery! Interesting that the hibiscus changes colors!